Bastrop Builder
Build plan · Deck project

A swim spa on the deck, done right.

Relocating an existing swim spa from Hot Springs onto the deck — with a weatherproof big-screen TV, IP-rated LED lighting, and an outdoor shower on a handheld hose. Here is the plan, the parts that actually matter, and real examples of the look.

The project

The swim spa is already owned; it is coming from Hot Springs, Arkansas, to live on the deck. The build is DJ's (buildit356@gmail.com). Around the spa we want three things done properly: a big-screen TV that survives being outdoors next to water, lighting that makes the whole setup work after dark, and an outdoor shower for rinsing off before and after a soak.

None of that is hard. The two things that decide whether this is a good build or a regret are underneath it all: what the deck can carry, and how the power is run. Those come first, so they are first below.

Read this before anything else — the load. A swim spa is not a hot tub. Filled, a mid-size swim spa holds roughly 1,500 to 3,000 gallons of water. Water weighs 8.34 lb per gallon, so the water alone is often 13,000 to 25,000 lb — call it 7 to 12 tons once you add the shell and the people in it. A standard residential deck is not built for that. The deck structure and footings have to be engineered for the filled weight, or the spa needs to sit on a reinforced pad or piers, with the deck built around or over it. This is the single most important line on the page: DJ should confirm the load path before the spa is moved.

The waterproofed big-screen TV

"Waterproof a TV" really means two honest choices. Both are real and both work; the right one depends on budget and how exposed the screen will be.

Recommended for a spa deck

A purpose-built outdoor TV

Typically ~$1,500–$5,000+ depending on size and brightness class

Sealed, weather-rated sets made for this — SunBriteTV, Séura, Furrion Aurora. They are IP-rated against rain and dust, run far brighter than an indoor TV so they stay visible in Texas sun, and handle humidity and temperature swings.

  • Pick the brightness class for the spot: full-shade, partial-sun, or full-sun models.
  • No enclosure to build; cleanest look.
  • Higher up-front cost is the trade-off.

A weatherproof enclosure + a normal TV

Enclosure ~$300–$800 + a standard TV

A sealed housing around an ordinary indoor TV — The TV Shield, Storm Shell, Apollo Enclosures. Much cheaper, and it protects a set you may already own.

  • Best when the TV lives under real cover and out of direct splash.
  • Bulkier; add an anti-glare screen for daytime.
  • Some enclosures offer a fan/heater for humidity and cold.

Either way, mount it at the dry end. Put the screen under a pergola, roof overhang, or a built soffit — not out over the water — on a tilting mount angled down and away from splash. Keep it out of the arc where spray and steam reach.

Overhang / pergola (cover) Weatherproof TV, tilted down & away Swim spa (wet zone) splash & steam kept off screen GFCI outlet + in-use cover, with a drip loop in the cord
The setup in one picture: screen under cover at the dry end, tilted away from the spa, fed from a GFCI outlet with an in-use cover and a drip loop.

Power & anti-fog, the non-negotiables

LED lighting

Lighting is what turns the spa from a daytime feature into the reason people stay out after dark. Use IP65 or IP67 rated color-changing (RGB / RGBW) LED — anything less is not meant to be wet.

The outdoor shower

A rinse before and after keeps the spa water clean and the soak feels better. Plan a deck-mounted hot/cold shower with a handheld head on a slide bar and an extender hose, so it reaches for a real rinse.

The checklist for DJ

  • Confirm the load path first. Engineer the deck/footings for the filled weight, or set the spa on a reinforced pad/piers. Nothing else starts until this is settled.
  • Electrical: licensed electrician for the spa's dedicated GFCI circuit + disconnect, and a separate GFCI circuit for the TV and lighting. Bond and ground the spa per code.
  • Level base and equipment access panels kept reachable after the deck is built around the spa.
  • TV: choose outdoor TV vs enclosure, pick the brightness class, mount tilted at the dry end under cover, on an in-use-covered GFCI outlet with drip loops.
  • LED: IP65+ RGBW, low-voltage runs, transformer in a dry spot, smart controller.
  • Outdoor shower: hot/cold mixing valve, handheld + extender hose, freeze protection, and real drainage.
  • Permits: check whether the deck load change and the electrical work need a permit locally before starting.

Similar installations

Real, freely-licensed photos of the pieces of this build — swim spas, deck-set hot tubs, spa lighting after dark, and outdoor showers. They show the look and the format, not the exact final design.

Next step: DJ confirms the deck load path and the electrical plan, then we lock the TV choice and the lighting layout. Questions or corrections: buildit356@gmail.com.

Photo credits

All photos are real, freely-licensed images from Wikimedia Commons, used to illustrate the build. Credits: Emocionate18 (CC BY-SA 3.0); Swimspaslab (CC BY-SA 4.0); TSRAbaloneBay (CC BY-SA 4.0); Infrogmation of New Orleans (CC BY-SA 4.0); Jacklee (CC BY-SA 3.0); Daniellaguips (CC BY-SA 4.0); Wkmdjay (CC0). Follow each link above for the source file and full license terms.